O write no more the tale of Troy
If earth Death’s scroll must be
Nor mix with Laian rage the joy
Which dawns upon the free
Although a subtler Sphinx renew
Riddles of death Thebes never knew.

-Percy Shelley, “Hellas”, 19-24,(1822)

Thebes, one of the most significant cities in Ancient Greece, is located in Boeotia, near other important cities like Thespiae. Thebes was a center of myth and history from the ancient times; surely you have heard the tales of Oedipus and Cadmus. Since ancient times, Thebes has been a center of myth and history; you’ve probably heard of Oedipus and Cadmus. Historically, it was a formidable opponent of Athens, playing an important role during the Persian Wars and the Peloponnesian War. Thebes holds a special place in Ancient Greek history as both a city of legends and a key player in battles that shaped the Greek world.

Thebes Key Facts

Overview

Thebes is one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities, dating back to the Mycenaean era. Thebes, like Athens and Sparta, was a powerful military and cultural center in antiquity. The modern city now stands above the remains of its ancient counterpart, which include significant archaeological sites such as the Cadmea citadel and various other remains. Let’s explore more about this once powerful city.

Practical Travel Tips

Getting There

Traveling to Thebes is easy, as it is connected to Athens by train and bus. If you opt to drive from Athens, it shouldn’t take more than an hour, depending on the traffic of the day.

Accessibility

The city is pedestrian-friendly and most of the historical sites are within walking distance and easily accessible.

Best Time to Visit

Thebes is one of the warmest towns in Greece, so the best months to visit are September through June, avoiding the heatwaves of July and August.

Duration of Visit

One day is sufficient to explore the city and its main historical sites. You could stay for two days to explore the rest of Boeotia.

Budgeting

The entrance fee for the Archaeological Museum of Thebes is 6 euros. Dining and lodging are generally affordable compared to larger tourist destinations like Athens.

Local Amenities

Modern Thebes provides a variety of amenities such as restaurants, cafes, hotels, and shops catering to visitors’ needs.

Thebes in Greek Mythology

Thebes has a rich mythology, dating back to its founding and playing a pivotal role in important myths that have been sung and performed for centuries. Let’s learn more about the city’s origins and role in Ancient Greek mythology.

Cadmus and Thebes

Cadmus was one of ancient Greece’s greatest heroes. Cadmus, originally from Phoenicia, accomplished many feats during his lifetime, but he is best known for founding the town of Thebes.

When Cadmus visited the Oracle of Delphi, he was instructed to follow a specific cow around. When the cow would become tired and lie down exhausted, there would be the place where Cadmus should build a city. The city was Thebes.

Cadmus, who wanted to sacrifice the cow to the goddess Athena, asked two of his companions to go to a nearby spring and bring him some water. The men were eaten by a fierce water dragon guarding the spring, which was eventually defeated by Cadmus.

Cadmus, instructed by Athena, sowed the dragon’s teeth, resulting in the birth of the Spartoi (“sown”). Cadmus forced them to fight one another, and when only five remained, they helped Cadmus build Thebes’ citadel, Cadmeia, and thus became the founders of the city’s five noble families.

Cadmus spent eight years serving Ares because the dragon was sacred to him. After this period, he married Ares’ daughter, Harmonia. They had five children together: Polydorus, who carried on the Cadmean dynasty, Agave, Autonoe, Ino, and Semele. 

This painting, Cadmus and Minerva by Jacob Jordaens, illustrates a scene from Greek mythology where Cadmus, the founder of Thebes, is accompanied by the goddess Minerva (Athena). Cadmus stands with his spear, while Minerva, dressed in armor and a helmet, directs his attention toward the warriors emerging from the ground. These warriors are the Spartoi, soldiers who sprang from the dragon's teeth that Cadmus had sown into the earth after defeating a giant serpent. The painting is rich with action and symbolism, as the figures display expressions of conflict, awe, and struggle, surrounded by a lush landscape. The myth represents themes of creation, destruction, and divine intervention.
acob Jordaens – Cadmos and Minerva Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

Dionysus and Semele

Semele was a priestess of Zeus in Thebes. It was there that Zeus fell in love with her and they started having an affair. Hera, realizing what was going on, assumed a human form and befriended Semele. She persuaded the young priestess to have Zeus reveal himself in front of her. Semele was persuaded and asked Zeus to reveal himself in his true form; however, no mortal can see a god without being incinerated, and thus Semele perished.

As she was pregnant, Zeus rescued the fetus from the burning body of Semele and saw him into his thigh. A few months later, Dionysus was born.

The Seven Gates of Thebes

Zeus and Antiope’s twin sons, Amphion and Zethus, play pivotal roles in Thebes mythology. Amphion was a talented musician, whereas Zethus was a strong and athletic figure. The two brothers worked together to build Thebes, particularly its seven-gated wall. Amphion could magically move stones to construct the city’s walls simply by playing his lyre, and Zethus assisted with his physical strength.

Amphion and Zethus and Dirce at Yusupov Palace.
Yair Haklai, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A shared tomb was erected for the two brothers, as a powerful symbol of their contribution to the city. In the myths, they also signified the dual character of Thebes: a place renowned for its significant cultural contributions and its impressive strength. 

The Curse of Laius and the Tragedy of Oedipus

As mentioned above, Cadmus established a dynasty of Kings in Thebes, starting with his son, Polydorus. Polydorus was the father of Labdacus, who was in turn the father of Laius. Labdacus died while Laius was still a child. Lycus ascended the throne of Thebes and exiled young Laius to Elis, where he was welcomed by King Pelops.

Laius grew older and became the teacher of Pelops’ son, Chrysippus. However, Laius abused young Chrysippus, who committed suicide out of shame. Laius, fearful of Pelops’ wrath, returned to Thebes and reclaimed the throne.

Pelops cursed Laius to be killed by his own children, which was confirmed by the goddess Hera. When Laius married Jocasta, the Oracle of Delphi warned him that if he had a son, that son would kill him. Thus, he avoided Jocasta sexually until one day, when she got him drunk and became pregnant with Oedipus

Laius abandoned Oedipus, who returned later, unaware that he was the royal couple’s son, murdered his father Laius and married his own mother. Of course, this would lead to the well-known story, which has been told in numerous poems and tragedies. 

Thebes and the civil war

Oedipus and Jocasta had four children before Oedipus discovered his incestuous relationship with his mother and went into exile, blinding himself. They bore Eteocles, Polynices, Antigone, and Ismene.

After their father left and cursed them both for having shunned him, Eteocles and Polynices agreed to rule alternately for one year each. However, Eteocles fell short of their agreement and exiled Polynices. Polynices, with the assistance of King Adrastus of Argos, marched on Thebes. Both brothers died in that famous war, known as the Seven Against Thebes, fulfilling their father’s curse. Creon, their uncle, ascended to the throne because Eteocles’ son was not yet of reigning age.

Thebes and Heracles

Birth of Heracles
Jean Jacques Francois Le Barbier (1738-1826), Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Heracles was born in Thebes during Creon’s reign as king. Before embarking on the labors that would earn him immortal fame, the young hero fought for Thebes against the Boeotian kingdom of Orchomenus.

Creon requested that Heracles marry his daughter, Megara, after the war had been won. Heracles married Megara and they had children, whom he killed in a fit of madness brought on by Hera. To atone for this sin, he became Eurystheus’ servant, embarking on a quest to complete his seemingly impossible tasks.

Thebes in Ancient Greek History

As we’ve seen, Thebes is one of the most prominent towns in Greek mythology. That is also true for Ancient Greek history. Thebes was a powerful Greek city that played a key role in numerous wars and alliances.

THEBES 2023 🇬🇷 Θήβα, Rival of Ancient Sparta | Drone Aerial 4K | Βοιωτία Ελλάδα Greece

The City of Thebes

Thebes’ origins can be traced back to the Mycenaean period, as evidenced by archaeological findings and Linear B tablets. The city flourished due to its strategic location and fertile land, becoming a hub of commerce and military strength.

The Seven-Gated Thebes came into conflict with Athens for the first time at the end of the sixth century BC, when it helped Plataea maintain its independence from Athens.

The Classical Period

In the 5th century BC, Thebes became embroiled in the rivalry between Athens and Sparta. Initially siding with Persia during the Greco-Persian Wars – possibly because of their aversion towards Athens – Thebes faced consequences after the Persian defeat at the Battle of Plataea in 479 BC. 

As a strong ally of Sparta during the Peloponnesian War, Thebes showcased its military strength, notably defeating Athens at the Battle of Delium in 424 BC. However, Thebes ended its alliance with Sparta after the war, realizing Sparta aimed to protect lands Thebes wanted to annex. In 404 BC, Thebes advocated for Athens’ destruction but shifted to support its democratic restoration in 403 BC to counter Spartan influence.

With possible help from Persian funds, Thebes helped form a coalition against Sparta. They displayed their military strength by resisting the Spartans in the Battles of Haliartus and Coronea in 395-394 BC. However, in 387 BC, a settlement granted full independence to Greek cities, weakening Thebes’ control. In 382 BC, Spartans executed a surprise takeover of Thebes’ citadel, but they were expelled three years later, leading to a democratic government.

Under generals Epaminondas and Pelopidas, Theban forces triumphed at Leuctra in 371 BC, earning acclaim for championing the oppressed. They further weakened Sparta by freeing many helots and conducted military expeditions into Thessaly and Macedonia.

Decline and Future of Thebes

Thebes’ dominance was short-lived as the states it protected resisted permanent control. Its rivalry with Athens intensified, especially after Epaminondas’ death at the Battle of Mantinea in 362 BC, which left Thebes a secondary power. During the Third Sacred War against Phocis (356–346 BC), Thebes lost its influence, eventually calling the Macedonians for help, which backfired. An unsuccessful revolt against Alexander the Great in 335 BC resulted to the city’s destruction, with many Thebans sold into slavery. 

Thebes was re-established in 315 BC by Cassander, but the city never regained its former power. During the Roman and Byzantine periods, it remained a center of commerce, especially silk trade. After being captured by the Ottomans between the 15th and 19th centuries, Thebes lost much of its former glory and never recovered it.

Exploring the Location: Thebes

While there isn’t a large, unified archaeological site, there are numerous remains scattered throughout Thebes, the majority of which date back to the Mycenaean period. Aside from that, a visit must be paid to the Archaeological Museum of Thebes, is required, as it houses the majority of the exhibits discovered in Thebes as well as other locations throughout Boeotia.

Cadmea – the Mycenaen Palace

The Cadmea, or Cadmeia (Greek: Καδμεία), was the citadel of ancient Thebes, Greece, which was named after Cadmus, the legendary founder of Thebes.
Mirjanamimi, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Cadmea is Thebes’ ancient citadel, where a Mycenaean palace once stood. Though only a few remains remain today, the size of the citadel demonstrates its significance. The remains of the great building known as Cadmeio include a treasure room, an armory, a wool processing workshop, and other structures.

Temple of Apollo Ismenios

The Temple of Ismenius Apollo, located on a hill southeast of ancient Thebes, was originally built as a Mycenaean cemetery in the 15th century BC. The site was home to three temples, the first built in the late eighth century BC and a Doric temple that lasted until the fourth century BC. The final piece, an unfinished Doric kiosk, featured statues of Hermes and Athena. 

Temple of Ismenius Apollo
Photo Credit: MTHV.GR

Seven Gates

The city of Thebes was fortified, with seven gates built on its walls: Borraiai, Elektrai, Homoloides, Hypsistai, Neistai, Ogygiai, Onkaiai, and Proitides. Only the Elektrai gates have been discovered, along with a portion of the Protides gates.

Chamber Tomb of Oedipus’ Children

A monumental chamber tomb from the 13th century BC. It is decorated with frescoes depicting women bidding farewell to the deceased. It was identified as the burial site of Eteocles and Polynices. In reality, it may have been an aristocratic tomb.

Spring of Dirce

According to legend, Cadmus killed the dragon at Dirce Spring. The spring is named after King Lykos’ wife, Queen Dirce, a river-nymph. Dirce had tortured her niece, Antiope, and Antiope’s sons, Amphion and Zethus, punished her by murdering her and throwing her body in the spring.

Last Thoughts

While Thebes is not a popular tourist destination, a visit to the town is essential for anyone interested in ancient Greek history, particularly mythology. The archaeological sites and museum will transport you to the world of Cadmus and Oedipus’ famous myths. Overall, it is worthwhile paying Thebes at least a brief visit if you have a day to spare.

FAQs about Thebes

What is Thebes famous for?

Thebes is well-known for its rich mythology, including the stories of Oedipus, Cadmus, and the Seven Against Thebes, as well as its military history.

What are the must-see sites in Thebes?

The Archaeological Museum of Thebes, the Cadmea Citadel, the Temple of Apollo Ismenius, and the battlefield of Leuctra are all important sites.

Can I visit Thebes as a day trip from Athens?

Yes, Thebes is easily accessible from Athens and is suitable for a day trip.

Featured Image Credit: Michal Jančina, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

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Vasiliki Moutzouri

Vasiliki has been a professional author, editor, and academic researcher since 2018. She currently lives in Athens, Greece. She has studied Philology and Computational Linguistics at the University of Athens. She is interested in literature, poetry, history and mythology, and political philosophy. Other interests include playing music, traveling, and playing pen-and-paper games. She has written a children’s book and a few poems. She is currently working as a content writer, translator, and editor, as well as an academic researcher in the field of linguistics.